Lockdown orders. Self-isolation. Social distancing. The Covid-19 pandemic has forged a “new normal” wherein face-to-face interactions are few and far between. From teachers using Google Classroom to businesses hosting meetings on Zoom, the general public adapted to these new restrictions by relying on digital means of communication. Entire industries knew they had to rely on their creativity to decrease their inevitable losses. The fashion industry, characterized by its power to dictate what’s in vogue, inadvertently used the pandemic as an opportunity to innovate.
Aside from retailers running entirely on online orders and manufacturers indefinitely halting production, one major casualty was the cancellation of real-life fashion events, from runway shows to magazine shoots.
In March, both Men’s and Couture Fashion Weeks - originally set in France in June and July - were cancelled, followed closely by the deferral of Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week to September alongside Women’s Fashion Week.
However, the fashion world wasn’t ready to give up on this annual cultural moment - established in 1943 with New York’s first fashion week - and, instead, decided to go the digital route. Over the course of 5 days, from the 9th to the 13th of July, 68 different brands debuted their SS21 collections in the first digital fashion week of its kind.
As opposed to directing runway shows and creating a real-life ambience, fashion houses were now facing an unprecedented challenge - launching a new collection solely through film and video content; still, the fashion world - known to always push the envelope - took this challenge in stride. While some brands portrayed the essence of their collections and presented their garments in classic fashion films, others took a less traditional route. Chanel went back to basics with its moody Mediterranean dream of corals, whites, and navy blues in a video directed by the brand’s Virginie Viard. In a 3 and a half minute, five-chaptered video, Salvatore Ferragamo showcased its history as an Italian company and promoted its vision of sustainability. PHILIPP PLEIN also gave insight to its runway history coupled with a futuristic, dynamically edited one-man show wherein the brand’s namesake and founder modeled their latest designs. Jacquemus sparked controversy by opting to host a live runway show in isolation; set in French Regional National Park of Vexin’s giant wheat field, the show was both live streamed by its attendees and compacted into a 17 minute long video. Showcasing its collection in August, Louis Vuitton produced an animated psychedelic trip in which “Virgil Abloh presents a new concept for his latest Louis Vuitton collection in lieu of the traditional fashion show format”. Hermès released a live performance pulling back the curtain on the behind-the-scenes of a campaign shoot by showing stylists primping models and directors adjusting shots.
Besides allowing brands to step outside of the box, digital fashion week also shined the spotlight on players new to the field, such as EGONlab and Alled-Martinez. Conventionally, fashion week shows are spaced an hour apart to provide attendees, reporters, and industry insiders with enough time to relocate from one show to another; however, with no relocation to account for, digital showcases were spaced 30 minutes apart, creating new slots for brands to participate. Digitization also meant that the fashion shows garnered a wider audience, for fashion week tends to be attended by celebrities and those who work in the fashion world only; having access to these shows on YouTube and other social media platforms gave everyone with an internet connection access into these usually private affairs. Yet, Business Vogue claims “the digitization of fashion week comes with the loss of emotion” regardless of the new opportunities it presents and that designers cannot wait for their collections to hit the runaways as soon as it’s safe.
Another adjustment the industry had to make was publishing print magazines without having photo shoots. Luckily, technology has progressed enough for virtual photo shoots to become a reality. These past couple of months, the Facetime photo shoot has solidified its position as a 2020 trend. An easy way for photographers and creative directors to direct models, Facetime has become an invaluable tool in the fashion world.
These photo shoots, first popularized by Bella Hadid’s Vogue Italia April story, don’t employ a large team of stylists, makeup artists, and lighting professionals and, instead, rely on the model’s skills as well as the photographer’s direction to get their message across. Brands have even started sending their garments to models and using their images to debut their collections or promote them; the “JACQUEMUS AT HOME” Instagram series, photographed over Facetime by Pierre-Ange Carlotti, featured Bella Hadid, Barbie Ferreira, and Steve Lacy posing in the summer 2020 collection inside their homes. British magazine i-D also revealed its latest project “a portfolio of 19 of the biggest supermodels in the world” titled “Safe + Sound” was shot entirely through Facetime.
Small photographers, whose business has come to a halt with stay at home orders and event cancellations, have also been offering their services through Facetime, giving everyone a taste of the supermodel life.
Although there’s no comparison to the quality of actual photography, Facetime shoots have allowed creators to continue to express their vision despite the spread of Coronavirus.
The spread of this pandemic has also brought to light the harsh reality of fast-fashion. As manufacturers in Asia and Africa are forced to shut down production, brands and retailers have been cancelling orders they haven’t even paid for, thus contributing to the terrible working conditions factory workers are subjected to and even causing the unemployment of several hundred workers. Many brands are just now realizing the necessity of a break: overproduction and overconsumption not only affect thousands of lives but also cause detrimental damage to the environment. Fashion Revolution, a movement advocating for “a global fashion industry that conserves and restores the environment and values people over growth and profit” has been updating its website with resources on how to help underpaid and recently unemployed workers affected by the Covid-19 pandemic as well as statements from major brands and retailers on how they’re paying their supply chain.
As we continue to face this health crisis, we’re sure to see the fashion world evolve to accommodate the restrictions we are yet to see and, hopefully, take responsibility for the damage that’s already been done.
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